L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon (MGM Grand, Las Vegas, NV)

Small Plates and Large Theater at the MGM Grand

As I glanced down at my match, a look of panic spread over my face as I realized that it was an hour later than I had thought. Normally this would not be a problem but DJ and I had tickets to see Ka at the MGM Grand and we needed some time beforehand to grab a quick bite to eat. We quickly hurried over to the MGM Grand and DJ went to L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon to get us a table while I ran off to the ticket window to claim our will call tickets. After securing the tickets, I met DJ at my counter seat and took a brief minute to pause and catch my breath.

As I gathered myself and began to look around, I was struck by the interesting layout of the restaurant. The dining room contains only a handful of traditional booths. The majority of the seating is located around the counter of the large, rectangular, open kitchen. The black, red, and white coloring of the room makes for an elegant, yet relaxed atmosphere.

We decided to order four small plates and settled on Le Crabe, La Crevette, La Morue, and La Volaille. Our server expedited our orders since we were running late for the show; our bread arrived soon after. The first two dishes to arrive were the jumbo prawn with angel hair coating served with an orange and jasmine dip and the avocado slices, seasoned crabmeat and a mild spicy oil. The angel hair coating on the prawn was extremely crisp and dense. It completely enveloped the prawn and contrasted the tender meat. The orange dip added a nice flavor to the dish and we were off to a good start. We both loved the avocado slice with seasoned crabmeat. The avocado was particularly thinly sliced and the crabmeat was fresh and flavorful.

Our second course arrived almost immediately after we finished our first course. The fresh cod with fillet in a vegetable broth was outstanding. The fish was unbelievably moist and the portion was exceptionally generous for a tasting small plate. The wonton shell covering that adorned the top of the fish was paper thin and extremely soft. Finally, the vegetable broth added just enough flavor and body to round out the dish. The free range chicken wings served with sweet and sour pineapple was the most unique preparation of wings that I have seen. Two small, in bone pieces of fried chicken each sat atop of a pineapple ring that was sauced with a sweet and sour sauce. The chicken meat was pulled toward one end of the bone which made for easy consumption. The meat was very tender while the skin was crisp, yet non-greasy.

A surprise serving of mashed potatoes, a house specialty arrived courtesy of the Chef. The mashed potatoes were extraordinarily creamy. When I questioned our server regarding their preparation, he informed me that the potatoes are not whipped; rather, they are pressed through very fine filter paper.After paying the bill and procuring a menu, we were escorted into the theater by the maitre’d thus bypassing the line that had formed. We arrived with five minutes to spare and settled in for what would prove to be an absolutely marvelous show. Ka should not be missed by anyone going to Las Vegas.

I highly recommend L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon. The food is absolutely outstanding and the small plate menu affords you the opportunity to sample many of Chef Robuchon’s dishes without having to pay for the more expensive entrees. The service is also topnotch. Finally, the counter seating and open kitchen configuration of the dining room makes for an interesting meal replete with people watching.

The Facts
Name: L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon
Address:
MGM Grand
3799 Las Vegas Blvd S
Las Vegas, NV 89109
Phone: (702) 891-7925
Website: L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon
Cuisine: French
Price: Tasting Portions $9-$32, Appetizers $14-$54, Entrees $26-$54

Aureole (Mandalay Bay, Las Vegas, NV)

Unreal Aureole is Amazing

I enjoyed the best meal that I have had all year at Aureole in Mandalay Bay. Such praise does not come lightly given the large number of fantastic meals that I have enjoyed this past year across the country. However, no praise can do justice to the meal that DJ and I experienced. Everything was simply outstanding from the food to the service to the wine to the décor.

I had planned this meal long in advance and was looking forward to it but it was not on the top of my list. Due to the fact that it is an attempt to replicate Charlie Palmer’s New York landmark, I was skeptical at first. However, I was hopeful due in large part to Vikas’s strong recommendation of the New York location. I left John, Jake, and Bob at the Border Grill and made my way to the area outside of the restaurant where I waited for DJ to arrive from McCarran Airport. We met up outside the Red, White, and Blue Café and embarked on what I hoped would be an excellent 25th birthday celebration for him.

Upon entering the restaurant, you are immediately struck by its stunning décor. The high ceilings, formal table settings and extensive use of attractive tan wood make for an elegant and luxurious, yet modern dining room. The restaurant is set down a few stories from the rest of the casino. The stairway leading down to the restaurant encircles a multistory glass enclosed wine cellar that is visible from outside the restaurant. The view of the cellar is breathtaking and must be observed in person in order to fully comprehend its majesty. As you descend the stairs, you cannot help but be awestruck and you immediately sense that you are entering a special, unique restaurant. Even the facade of the restaurant is noteworthy with the name appearing in shadowed letters above three oddly shaped windows.



The hostess took DJ’s bags for storage during our meal and promptly seated us at a table in the middle of one of the dining areas. The main dining room is continuous but high walled booths help to divide the room into smaller, more intimate dining areas. Throughout our meal, our section of the dining room was fairly empty, which contributed to the intimacy of our meal.




After being seated, we were immediately presented with the menus and I asked to see the wine list. What proceeded was the most unique wine list presentation that I have ever seen. Our server came back a tablet PC instead of the traditional bound, paper wine list that we are all accustomed to receiving. We were informed that the wine list is simply too large to be printed in the traditional way and I do not doubt this at all. Aureole has arguably the city’s largest and best wine collection. The wine list was easily navigated using a program that was custom written for the restaurant. I was overwhelmed by the list and asked our server for recommendations after telling him my wine preferences (dry, peppery red wines). He strongly recommended a 1998 Colombia Valley D2 Cabernet Blend, which he described in detail, but decided to get the sommelier since he would be better able to discuss the wine by the glass selections with us. I appreciated our server’s proactive approach especially since I was not asking many questions. The sommelier quickly came to our table and gave us a wonderful five minute lesson on the differences between the oak barrels that are used to age some of the various wines that are offered by the glass. He likewise recommended the D2 Cabernet for its richness and worldliness. DJ and I each ordered a glass despite my general distaste for Cabernet blends. Our server returned with the wine and we quickly sampled it. We were both immediately stunned by its rich flavor and full body. It demonstrated a complexity not often found in wines that cost twice as much. This was certainly the best wine that I have had all year and might very well be the best glass of wine that I have ever heard.


After the wine ordering was complete, DJ and I each ordered the 7 course tasting menu and settled in for a night of what we hoped would be good food, good conversation, and some much needed catching up. A server soon arrived with a tray full of interesting breads. I choose a pretzel roll and a black olive roll while DJ chose an onion roll and a black olive roll. DJ absolutely loved the onion roll and it was clear that the breads were baked fresh; I enjoyed both of mine. The black olive roll had a very strong, distinctive flavor and the pretzel roll was extremely soft and tender. It served as an excellent palate cleanser between the various courses.


Our first course was a trio of ahi tuna “Mediterranean” flavors, which was a tasting of three different preparations of rare tuna: pesto infused zucchini blossom, fennel crusted loin 'Nicoise' style, and 'Olioe' dressed tartar. The fennel crusted loin was a standard wedge of seared rare tuna. The ‘Olioe’ tartare had a strong olive oil flavor but was well balanced. The final tuna preparation consisted of a pesto base. This preparation was extremely flavorful, very fresh, and new to me. These three different preparations covered a nice spectrum of textures and flavors and showcased the kitchen’s versatility with a single ingredient, rare ahi tuna.


Next from the kitchen was a delightful preparation of hand rolled potato-truffle gnocchi with English peas and fresh summer black truffles. The gnocchi was incredibly light and creamy. The truffle foam added a unique flavor and texture to the gnocchi. The other ingredients combined together nicely to form a dish that was more than the sum of its parts.


It must be noted that the pacing of our meal was outstanding all night long. Dishes were very evenly spaced and we always had just enough time to appreciate each dish without feeling that we were waiting for the next dish. All restaurants that serve tasting menus should take lessons from Aureole as it has been my experience that tasting menu pacing is never this uniform nor well timed.

The third course was the most traditional of the courses that were presented to us and consisted of citrus grilled escolar with white and green asparagus and a watercress emulsion. I loved this dish since I am a huge fan of escolar (my other favorite fish is skate). The escolar was moist and the watercress emulsion was surprisingly flavorful.


The fourth course, Moulard duck breast and crispy foie gras spring roll with herb spaetzle, balsamic Treviso, and glazed baby turnips was one of my favorite dishes of the evening. The duck breast was well prepared; the foie gras and duck that lined the inside of the spring roll were nice and crisp. Due to the variety of this dish, it easily had the most complex, layered flavors of the night.


The final savory course was a duo of filet mignon and oxtail marmalade with a medley of jewel potatoes “Lyonnaise”. This was the least memorable of the courses. The meat itself was very tender but the lagged slightly behind the others in terms of creativity and variety.


Having concluded our entrees, we looked forward to our cheese and dessert courses that were to come. The cheese course contained an interesting mix of three different kinds of cheese, a cranberry orange polenta cake, caramelized pecans, orange shallot vinaigrette, and a collection of greens. Our server recommended combining all ingredients at once as opposed to eating each item sequentially. This sounded extremely strange to us but we entertained his recommendation since he claimed that the dish was merely ordinary if eaten in the typical manner. Combining a little of each of the cheeses, the greens, and the cranberry cake, I thrust them into my mouth and began to taste. The taste was very strange due to the mixture of different textures but worked surprisingly well. The greens, cheese, and cake complemented each other beautifully although the individual flavors of the cheeses were lost.


Our dessert course consisted of a milk chocolate hazelnut parfait with tangerine sorbet, candied orange, and dark chocolate sauce. The sorbet was refreshing and was served in a hollowed out tangerine wedge. The parfait was rich, extremely flavorful, and very creamy yet managed to be surprisingly light. DJ adored this dish and I also thoroughly enjoyed it. This was one of the best desserts that I have ever had.


Our meal concluded with petits fours and handmade chocolates, most of which we took back to the hotel since we were extremely full. I do not think that I could have asked for a better meal to celebrate DJ’s 25th birthday. I would be a very happy man if every meal that I eat is as good as this one.


I give Aureole in Mandalay Bay my absolute highest recommendation. This was the easily the best meal that I have had all year. Service, décor, wine, and food are all outstanding. The tasting menu is sublime and is not to be missed. It is creative, expertly prepared and crafted, and perfectly well balanced.

The Facts
Name: Aureole
Address:
Mandalay Bay Hotel
3950 Las Vegas Blvd. S.
(Hacienda Ave.)
Las Vegas, NV 89119
Phone: (702) 632-7401
Cuisine: New French
Website: Aureole
Price: 7 course tasting menu ($95)

I'll See You in Vegas

Many of you may be wondering why I haven't posted any new Philly reviews since I typically eat out in the city a few times per week. The answer is that I have been swamped at work since our most important industry trade show starts next Tuesday (the International Telemetry Conference, ITC). That's the bad news. The good news is that I will be in Las Vegas for 8 days and already have 10 reservations (8 dinner, 2 brunch). I am planning on trying out the following restaurants:

• Nobu
• Michael Mina
• Fleur de Lys
• Aureole
• Picasso
• Bouchon
• Verandah
• Valentino
• Commander's Palace
• Okada
  

As you can see from my list, I am trying a mixture different places. Some old classics and some new hits. Some New York and California transplants. I am very curious to see if Wynn Las Vegas lives up to the recent hype that it has been receiving. Many people have argued that this is the new culinary center of Las Vegas. We'll have to see ...

Stay tuned for my reviews - I hope to be posting on a near daily basis while I am out there. For those of you headed to ITC and friends / family that I'll be meeting there, I only have one thing to say --

I'll see you in Vegas !!

Old Homestead Steakhouse (Atlantic City, NJ)

Slots, Steaks, and a Celebration

I hopped on the AC Expressway and made my way towards the Borgata, where I was going to meet Aunt Janice and Uncle Bob. It was Aunt Janice’s birthday so we were celebrating at the Old Homestead Steakhouse, our favorite restaurant at the Borgata. Our reservation was for 5:30 PM and I arrived fifteen minutes early. I met Uncle Bob and we headed over to the slot machine that Aunt Janice was seated at. No sooner had I arrived than did she hit the machine for $50. She cashed out and we headed over the restaurant, smiling all the way.

Each time that I walk through the immense doorways that run from the floor to the double height ceiling, I am impressed; the large multiyear collection of Macallan scotch that is on display behind glass as you pass the bar on your way to the host stand also always grabs my attention (and whets my palate). We were seated in a small, empty room immediately to the right of the host stand that none of us had previously eaten in. The friendly staff, whose service is always outstanding, greeted us as we took our seats. Having already enjoyed two outstanding meals here earlier this year, I was very much looking forward to tonight’s meal.


Since I had not previously reviewed the Old Homestead Steakhouse, I decided to only order dishes that I had already tried so that I would better be able to comment on the consistency of the kitchen. Having chosen different dishes during my previous visits, I had a fairly broad list of choices available. We placed our orders and waited for our beverages to arrive. Aunt Janice ordered her usual decaffeinated tea, Uncle Bob his usual pint of Guiness, and I chose a Bacchus Cabernet Sauvignon. The cabernet was fairly standard with neither a memorable aroma nor a memorable taste. However, its mellow flavor worked fine with most of my dishes.

As our meal progressed, our previously empty dining room quickly filled up with several large parties. Our appetizers arrived quickly – two jumbo lump crab cakes and a calamari salad. Aunt Janice and Uncle Bob split one crab cake and I had the other one. I must confess that I simply adore their crab cakes. Each crab cake is huge, very lightly fried, packed with fresh jumbo lump crabmeat, and completely devoid of filler. One can easily make a meal by simply ordering two of them, which is what my Dad chose to do during his last visit with me.


My fried calamari salad with field greens, hearts of palm, wontons, mango, and a spicy miso vinaigrette was also excellent as always. The portion is very generous and the salad can be shared by two people if desired. The calamari was fresh and nicely fried. Despite the description on the menu, I have never felt that the miso vinaigrette is spicy by any means but it is flavorful and compliments the rest of the ingredients in the salad. My only complaint is that they are fairly stingy with the sliced mango but the few slices they provided were excellent. I recommend a generous helping of freshly ground pepper with this salad.


Due to my ordering of two appetizers and a speedy turnaround by the kitchen, our entrees arrived before I finished my salad. However, our waiter handled the situation well by sending them back to the kitchen after asking me how I would like him to handle the situation. Once I finished my salad, our entrees and side order of sweet potato fries returned in short order. As with our appetizers, our entrée portions were extremely large. Aunt Janice thoroughly enjoyed her lobster tail (one of her staple dishes at the restaurant). Uncle Bob’s empire cut of prime rib on the bone weighed in at 32 ounces. Although I did not sample it, I can confirm that Uncle Bob loved it as it disappeared from his plate in record time. My New Zealand baby rack of lamb that arrived looked identical to the serving that I had during my last visit. The portion was enormous and it was perfectly cooked medium rare as I had requested (I always order my meats cooked medium rare unless the chef strongly recommends otherwise). The sweet potato fries were crispy on the outside yet extremely tender on the inside. It must be noted that the consistency of the kitchen is superior. All of my dishes were equally as good this time as the last time that I had them.


After we finished our entrees, we ordered our usual coffees (regular for Uncle Bob and I, decaffeinated for Aunt Janice). During my previous visits, the dessert course was the only course that I was not extremely impressed with. Its not that the desserts are bad, it is just that are not notable as is the rest of the menu. Last time, Uncle Bob and I both had the drunken bananas which suffered from too much sauce and not enough bananas nor ice cream. This time, we each ordered the sugar free gelato. I must compliment the restaurant for offering a sugar free alternative but was disappointed with the overly icy texture of the gelato. The vanilla and chocolate flavors were good and it made for a nice finish to my wonderful meal. Aunt Janice had the crème brulee, which arrived with a candle and a singing of Happy Birthday from some of our waiters. She enjoyed the crème brulee as always. We headed back out into the casino after settling the bill. My luck was non existent but Aunt Janice took another $50 out of a slot machine – Happy Birthday!


Overall, I highly recommend the Old Homestead Steakhouse at the Borgata. The outstanding service, quality meats and appetizers, and mammoth portions never disappoint. If you steer clear of the dessert course (or recognize that it will be ordinary but satisfying) you are guaranteed to have a thoroughly fantastic meal.

The Facts:
Name: Old Homestead Steakhouse
Address:
Borgata Hotel
Casino & Spa
One Borgata Way
Atlantic City, NJ 08401
Phone: (609) 317-1000
Website: Old Homestead Steakhouse
Cuisine: Steaks
Cost: Appetizers $8-$18, Raw Bar $2-$125, Entrees, $27-$95

Django Bombshell

For those who have not heard the unfortunate news, Django, Philly's top BYOB and my 2nd favorite restaurant in the city, changed ownership this past Wednesday, October 12th. I am completely in shock. I knew that Bryan Sikora and Aimee Olexy only had a 5 year lease but I had always assumed that they would just extend the lease due to the popularity and critical acclaim that the restaurant has received. The new owners will supposedly keep everything the same as before with one key change -- the most important change of them all. Ross Essner will be taking over the kitchen from Sikora. I am extremely skeptical that the food quality will remain as good as it has always been but that remains to be seen. I will certainly make a return visit shortly to see how things are going but this is without a doubt a very sad day for the Philly restaurant scene.

Vetri - The Best Italian Restaurant in the Country

Having recently reread Alan Richman’s article “Is This the Best Italian Restaurant in America?” in September issue of Bon Appetit, I felt compelled to comment. Reading this article brought a smile to face since Vetri is my favorite restaurant in Philadelphia (for those of you who haven’t yet heard me sing its praises). I could not agree more with Richman’s conclusion although he fails to make a completely explicit case.

So the question is why is Vetri my favorite restaurant and the best Italian restaurant in the country? What makes it so special that it warrants so much attention? Is it really worth the high price of admission? And why is it my favorite restaurant when Italian food ranks so low on list of preferred cuisines?

Here’s why:

• Menu Uniqueness – Nowhere else will you see dishes such as “stuffed squid with sweet English pea ragu”, handmade “almond tortellini with white truffle sauce”, and their signature dessert “gelato with chocolate shell and warm olive oil”. The stuffed squid consists of rolled calamari steaks stuffed with purred calamari and topped with an English pea ragu. The almond tortellini is simultaneously sweet and savory and exhibits a perfect balance between almonds, pasta, and truffle sauce. The gelato is presented in a cup with a thin layer of chocolate covering the top. The hot olive oil is then poured on top thus melting the chocolate and encasing the gelato. It’s quite a site to behold if you have never seen it.
  

• Best Seamless Small Dining Room Experience – Vetri’s setting is intimate and very romantic. Moreover the service is seamless. You are always perfectly taken care yet you never once feel as if you are being waited on. Dishes appear and empty plates disappear. Guidance through the menu is always informative and helpful. You feel completely at home despite the fact that you are out at a restaurant in downtown Philadelphia. Every restaurant should take lessons from the service at Vetri since it is the very definition of perfectly attentive service that is neither overbearing nor stuffy in any way. Craig LaBan of the Philadelphia Inquirer has made similar comments before and he is completely correct.
  

• Consistency and Food Quality – The ingredients, food preparation, and service are always perfect. Period.
  

• Charm / History – What better place for an intimate, romantic Italian restaurant than the brownstone that gave rise to the world famous Le Bec-Fin. Just a few blocks away from Broad Street, Vetri is located right in Philadelphia’s cultural and culinary center.
  

• Marc Vetri – His creativity, technical precision, and attention to detail are a gift to the culinary world.
  

Boston Top 10

While I'm still getting the site caught up with my recent Boston excursion, I thought that I would post my top 10 Boston restaurants with some of my quick thoughts on each:

1. No. 9 Park- Oustanding food, service, and location right on the Boston Common. For a true sampling, indulge in the multi-course lunch tasting menu without breaking your bank account.
   
2. Hamersley's Bistro - Killer new American food marked by extremely bold and powerful flavors (don't miss Gordon's signature chicken entree)
   
3. The Federalist - Oustanding service, gourgeous decor, imense wine list, and an outstanding brunch menu.
   
4. Blue Ginger - True Asian fusion and truly unique dishes (don't miss the foie gras shumai or butterfish).
   
5. Fugakyu - Best selection of maki I've ever seen (including extensive use of fruit such as mango, pineapple, etc.)
   
6. East Coast Grill - Best seafood in Boston (don't miss the swordfish or killer drinks).
   
7. Elephant Walk - French and Cambodian restaurant offers excellent food and and excellent value with multiple dinner prix fixes.
   
8. Franklin Café - Excellent New American bar / restaurant. Despite its small size, loud dining room, and long waiting times, the food more than makes up for it (don't miss the sauteed calamari)
   
9. Brown Sugar - Thai restaurant whose menu size beats most diners. Spicy dishes are served as they should be, with plenty of heat when requested.
   
10. The Helmand - Outstanding Afghani food served in an upscale restaurant with good service.
    

The Blue Room (Cambridge, MA)

A No Blues Brunch at the Blue Room

I woke up to yet another gorgeous Boston morning, threw on some clothes, and jumped into Dan's car (with Melanie at the wheel) as we headed over to One Kendall Square. Being the huge brunch buffet fan that I am, I had been eagerly awaiting this meal ever since I made the reservation last week. Zagat's had a favorable review and their online menu hinted at a diverse, Mediterranean-focused meal. Finally, at $23 per person, this was one of the more reasonably priced, gourmet brunches that I had encountered in quite some time (compared to some of my favorites, Swann Lounge and Lacroix at the Rittenhouse).


As I approached the restaurant, I was impressed with the surrounding area. The Blue Room is part of a few buildings that encompass One Kendall Square and the enclosed area has a quietness to it that is relaxing. Upon entering the restaurant, I was ushered past the dessert table, which looked sadly ordinary, to my single table next to the window. One sip from my water glass added to my building concerns due to its strangely metallic aftertaste (having sampled Boston's finest many times, I can testify that this was not simply a case of normal tap water). The coffee was fine so I just avoided the water for the remainder of the meal.

The layout of the restaurant is very conducive to serving a buffet meal since there is an open kitchen area that is surrounded with a lengthy countertop. The format of the buffet was outstanding; all of food was served in small bowls or on small plates that were left unheated. The small size serving dishes ensured that the food was fresh and the absence of heated chaffers ensured that the cooked dishes would not be unnecessary overcooked / dried out. The selection was varied and fairly large. I decided to sample each dish (well almost every dish, no pork or standard breakfast foods for me) beginning with the salads, followed by the meats, moving then into the seafood, and finally concluding with the separate dessert table.

My extended salad course began with some Mesculan Greens a with Mango Vinaigrette. The greens were uninteresting but the mango vinaigrette was tangy and contained freshly cubed mango pieces. The Grilled Octopus Salad that I sampled next was outstanding. The octopus was extremely tender and the salad had a surprising amount of flavor. My next two salads, the French Lentil Salad and Fregola Sarda with Chick Peas and Roasted Fennel, had very similar textures but were each uniquely flavored. I was partial to the lentil salad but the chick pea salad was also nice. I was disappointed with the Asian Noodles with Soy, Sesame and Seaweed Salad which was essentially a cold version of a standard lomein dish. The Three Bean Salad was a simple mix of multiple types of beans but the Mediterranean Salmon Salad was divine. The salmon was shredded and mixed with a number of different ingredients including onions and corn. It had a strong, unique flavor and its mixture of textures made it a joy to eat and one of my favorite dishes. The Cucumber and Radish Salad that followed, however, was not notable. The Halibut Ceviche that concluded my salad / cold appetizer course was another favorite dish from the meal. The raw fish was extremely fresh but had been thoroughly marinated so as not to taste too fishy. It melted in my mouth but was not overly drowned in sauce.




Having just consumed to large plates of salad I was just getting started and was eager to sample the meats that were available. I chose to begin with a small taste of the Fresh Corn Grits. I did not enjoy the grits but you must take my comment with a grain of salt since I am not much of a grits fan in general. My first meat dish of the morning was the Cumin Rubbed Grilled Flank Steak. I enjoyed the meat despite its cooking preparation which boarded on well done (I prefer medium rare). The cumin rub was generously applied and enjoyable. The Moroccan Spiced Chicken Thighs with Harissa lacked flavor but the meat was perfectly moist and tender. After the chicken, I concluded my meat tasting with the Whole Roasted Lamb and Braised Brisket, both of which were ordinary.


Being the huge seafood fan that I am, I was eager to try the seafood offerings although I was disappointed by the small selection relative to the number of salad and meat choices. The Pickled Sardines that I tried first were fine. Unfortunately, the Grilled Salmon with Chunky Fennel Vinaigrette dish that followed did not come close to achieving the success that the Mediterranean salmon salad that I had early did due to its bland preparation and sauce that was neither chunky nor strongly flavored with fennel. I adored the Hot Salted Head-On Shrimp with Chipotle Ketchup but the dish seemed out of place with the rest of the buffet. The chipotle ketchup had a nice kick and the shrimp were large and just properly cooked. My hands were stained from the ketchup after picking at the shrimp but it was well worth it. A few Sweet Plantains started warming up my sweet taste buds before I delved into the meat of the dessert course.


I began my dessert course with a dish that I have recently become incredibly sick of -- bread pudding. Having indulged myself with New Orleans finest bread puddings during my last trip there, I have yet to find a bread pudding worth eating outside of Louisiana until now. The actual pudding was unremarkable. However, the pudding was topped with a quarter inch thick brownie that transformed the dish. The Apple Tart Tatin was made from fairly tart apples but suffered from a little too much sugar. The Nut Brownie that looked so ordinary when I first passed by the dessert table at the beginning of my meal was surprisingly light and contained molten chocolate chips that were still warm.


The Mango Muffin that I had next was not worth eating due to the extremely faint mango flavoring and slightly dry consistency. I am not quite sure what was intended with the Tropical Fruit Crisp, which was more of a soupy mess than a fruit crisp. I enjoyed the Lemon Buttermilk Pudding which benefited from a light lemon flavoring. My brunch concluded with an outstanding Coconut Macaroon. I could have eaten an endless amount of the soft, crumbly cookies.


Overall, the Blue Room is highly recommended for brunch. The diverse menu is well executed and contains a wide variety of dishes. Coupled with the smart serving strategy (small, unheated bowls) and the reasonable price (for the food quality) and you have the making of an excellent meal. Finally, the subdued, modern décor and attentive service coupled with the tremendous amount of natural sunlight shining in the dining room through the large glass front provides a relaxed environment for enjoying your brunch.

The Facts
Name: The Blue Room
Address:
One Kendall Square
Cambridge, MA 02139
Phone: (617) 494-9034
Cuisine: Eclectic
Website: The Blue Room
Cost: Brunch $23

The Elephant Walk (Cambridge, MA)

Cambodia Meets France and Fusion Loses

Still reveling in my masterful fusion meal at Blue Ginger the previous night, I was eager to dig into the French-Cambodian cuisine that comprises the menu at The Elephant Walk. Lauren and Vikas whisked me away from Dan and Melanie's apartment, made a quick detour to Harvard Square to pick up Scott, and then headed off towards The Elephant Walk in Porter Square. We had originally intended to go to their Brookline location but time constraints altered our plans.

The Cambridge location is a two story venue. We waited downstairs at the bar for 10 minutes until a table opened up. We enjoyed their interesting drink menu but were disappointed when Lauren's Chumbaya never arrived. Fortunately, we were privy to excellent service during the remainder of our stay and quickly forgot about the aloof bartender (who did manage to make an outstanding Tanqueray and tonic for me). Throughout the evening, our experienced waitress guided our menu and Lauren's wine selections with informed advice.

Upon being presented with the menu, I was immediately overwhelmed by the large selection of dishes and the presence of two distinct prix fixes (a 3-course tasting for $30 and a 4-course tasting for $40). As I perused the menu, I noticed that each section of the menu consisted of two separate listings, one for Cambodian dishes and one for French dishes. After the true fusion experience of last night, I was extremely disappointed to see this obvious affront to the concept of fusion cuisine. Once the shock wore off, I settled on the 4-course prix fixe as did Lauren and Vikas (Scott ordered a la carte dishes).

Our starter course began with the salmon tartare and Cambodian spring rolls. The Tartare de Saumon au Fenouil (Salmon tartare with lemon, shallot, parsley and extra virgin olive oil; garnished with shaved fennel, edamame and French baguette toasts) was presented on mixed greens and seemed more like a salmon salad than a proper tartare. The dish was still enjoyable its with fresh, tender salmon pieces. The toasted French baguette slices allowed for miniature sandwiches to be made and the soy beans added an interesting flavor and texture that is not usually found in a raw salmon dish.


The Rouleaux (Camobdian spring rolls filled with ground pork, crushed peanuts, shredded carrots and minced onions; served with fresh lettuce, mint, Asian basil and bean sprouts for wrapping; tuk trey on the side for dipping) were outstanding. The succulent pork anchored the dish and was ensconced in a nicely fried shell. We ate the spring rolls in the traditional Cambodian manner by combining them with the bean sprouts, a piece of mint, then rolling them up in a large piece of lettuce, and finally dipping the roll in the accompanying sauce. The combination had a mixture of different textures and the flavor was beautifully complemented by the large, fresh, strongly flavored mint leaves.

Our soup / salad course consisted of the chilled avocado citrus soup, beet salad, shrimp salad, and an additional order of spring rolls. The Chilled Avocado Citrus Soup (Cubed avocado, button mushroom, plum tomatoes and diced onion in freshly squeezed orange and lime juices) that Lauren ordered was extremely tasty. It was light and refreshing and similar to many of the other cold, raw soups that I have had recently. This is one trend that I would love to see continue in the restaurant world.


I had the Salade Estivale aux Crevettes (Jumbo shrimp, watercress, edamame, julienned snow peas and celery, baby greens, shallot and cherry tomatoes tossed with lemon juice, crème fraiche and olive oil), which was a mistake since my first dish ended up being a salad as well. The three included shrimp were impressively large and very fresh. The salad was fairly standard and tasted similar to the salad that accompanied my salmon tartare. Once again soy beans helped vary the texture of the dish but any flavor of crème fraiche was absent from the dish.


Vikas thoroughly enjoyed his Salade de Betterave Rouge au Chevre (Diced red beet and weet pear with goat cheese and toasted walnut; dressed with balsamic vinaigrette). The salad was highlighted by generous portions of both the goat cheese and beets. One taste made me wish that it was my dish to enjoy.


Having only finished two of our four courses, I was already impressed but was eager to get to the meat (quite literally) of our order. After a short pause, our four entrees arrived. Scott enjoyed his Filet de Cabilaud Noir Grille et Caramelise (Wild Alaskan black cod filet lightly glazed with a mushroom soy-garlic marinade; served with a fragrant wild lime rice, a fresh ginger and coconut milk sauce and red bell pepper pickle salsa). I did not get an opportunity to sample this dish but the portions of cod and coconut rice appeared to be very small given its $26 price. Vikas and Lauren both ordered the Filet Mignon au Poivre et aux Raisins (Pan-seared 7oz beef tenderloin encrusted in a crushed black peppercorn; served with a red wine beef jus with fresh red grapes, leek gratin, mashed potatoes & pearl onion). The peppercorn coating had an extremely strong flavor and gave the otherwise plain tasting meat a spicy, enjoyable kick. I received a pleasant surprise when I bit into one of the leeks, which were extremely fresh and tender.


I ordered the Khar Saiko Kroeung (Natural Coleman beef short ribs braised in a sauce of ginger, mushroom soy, green coconut juice, tamarind and chili pods; served with fresh sliced cucumber) from the Cambodian portion of the menu and was not disappointed. The meat simply melted from the bone and was complimented perfectly by the sauce, which had just the right amount of spice so as not to overpower the flavor of the beef. The cucumbers provided a nice, crisp texture that contrasted the tenderness of the meat.


Before I begin describing the desserts that we enjoyed, I must make a strong disclaimer. Their coffee was simply awful (terribly weak and with an odd aftertaste). This was the uniform consensus of our table, which was devoid of coffee snobs (save for me). It is to be avoided at all costs. The enjoyable portion of our dessert course consisted of two orders of chocolate cake that Lauren and Vikas ordered and one mango mousse that I chose. This was easily my favorite course of the night, despite the fact that I thoroughly enjoyed all of our entrees. Le Peche au Chocolat (rich creamy white and semi-sweet chocolate truffle cake with raspberry sauce, whipped cream and delicate puff pastry straw) was one of the most enjoyable chocolate cake dishes that I have had in quite a long time. It seems that the recent trend is towards drier, flourless torts of which I am not a fan. As advertised, the cake truly was rich and creamy and sat in a very nice raspberry sauce.


I simply adored my Mango Mousse (Refreshingly tart and sweet mango mousse served in an almond lace cup; garnished with fresh kiwi). The creamy mousse was plated with a pool of mango sauce and a few pieces of fresh mango on top and is the perfect dish for all of the mango lovers out there (myself included). Now if only I had been able to enjoy a nice cup of coffee to finish off my meal.


At the end of the night, Lauren, Vikas, and Scott dropped me off at Dan and Melanie's before heading out for a night on the town. Apparently, my busy day of apple picking, hiking, touring Walden Pond, and eating had taken its toll on my body as I barely managed to type the first few words of this review before nodding off. Fortunately for me I dreamed of more food to come ...

Overall, Elephant Walk comes highly recommended as long as you are aware that this restaurant is in no way a Cambodian-French Fusion restaurant as is purports to be. That aside, you will be treated to an array of well prepared Cambodian and French dishes. Add to that the ability to compose your own meal of mixed cuisine dishes and the outstanding value provided by the two prix fixes and you are sure to have a memorable and enjoyable meal.

The Facts
Name: The Elephant Walk
Address:
2067 Massachusetts Avenue
Cambridge, MA 02140
Phone: (617) 492-6900
Cuisine: French and Cambodian
Website: The Elephant Walk
Cost: Appetizers $7.50-$11, Entrees $13-$28, 3-Course Prix Fixe $30, 4-Course Prix Fixe $40