Mike Portnoy's Restaurants

Thursday, December 22, 2005

Southwark (Philadelphia, PA)

A New South Street Gem

The accolades for Southwark are quickly accumulating with its recent 3-bell review from Craig LaBan and a listing in the 2006 Zagat’s Top Restaurants in America guide. Kendra and I were hoping to partake of the magic as we entered the restaurant following our unduly lengthy parking search.

The restaurant is located right on the corner of 4th and South Street. A gorgeous wooden bar runs lengthwise through entry room which contains a handful of small tables. The main dining room is located in a separate rectangular room at the rear of the restaurant. The room is small, intimate, and very romantic.

Over the course of the evening, Kendra and I enjoyed three glasses of red wine (I unfortunately do no recall the wines that we had). Since we were both extremely hungry (as if there is a time that I am not extremely hungry), we each ordered an appetizer and entrée and decided to share an additional appetizer, the steamed clams with dry vermouth, shallots, tomato, dried chili butter broth. This was one of the more unique preparations of steamed clams that I have had. The inclusion of the dried chili butter gave the dish a surprisingly tangy flavor that I was not prepared for. I unsure as to whether or not I enjoyed the dish but I certainly appreciated the novel broth

Kendra and I each ordered one of the spinach salads with toasted hazelnuts, figs, red onion, and buttermilk blue cheese dressing. Kendra enjoyed the salad and I thought it was excellent. The ingredients were fresh and simply prepared. The figs were tender and the hazelnuts had just enough toasting to give them some additional character without tasting burned. Finally, the buttermilk blue cheese dressing nicely complemented the salad without overpowering the hazelnuts and figs.

Kendra ordered the steak special, which she enjoyed. I ordered the grilled squid stuffed with brandade, with smoke bacon, Brussels sprouts, grilled radicchio, and aged balsamic walnut oil and was absolutely amazed with its flavor, texture, and composition. The brandade, a puree of salt cod and potato, was uniformly creamy, flavorful, and light. The grilled squid was extremely tender and expertly grilled. Each knife cut into the squid unleashed a flow of the rich brandade and the combination of the two textures (squid and brandade) was sublime. The accompanying medley of smoked bacon, Brussels sprouts, and grilled radicchio had a wonderfully smokey flavor. This was one of the most enjoyable dishes that I have had in recent memory.


Still hungry after our first and second courses, we each decided to order dessert. All desserts cost $6, which is a bargain for the homemade treats. Kendra enjoyed a very rich and creamy chocolate pot de crème. I had the warm crepes with honey mascarpone and toasted nuts. I was slightly disappointed with the smallish portion and somewhat bland flavoring of the doughy crepes. My dessert was the only kitchen slip that we encountered.

Overall I highly recommend Southwark. The small intimate dining room is very conducive to a quiet, romantic meal. The excellent quality food and innovative preparations make for a culinary feast. Attentive service and a reasonably priced wine by the glass list further contribute to the dining experience and help to solidify Southwark as an outstanding new addition to the Queen Village dining scene.

The Facts
Name: Southwark
Address:
701 S. 4th St.
Philadelphia, PA 19147
Phone: (215) 238-1888
Cuisine: New American
Price: $5-$14 Small Plates, $18-$24 Large Plates, $6 Desserts