Mike Portnoy's Restaurants

Sunday, December 25, 2005

Waterfront Restaurant (San Francisco, CA)

Stunning Views and Continental Comfort

Due to the limited selection of restaurants that were open on Christmas Day, I had chosen Waterfront on the basis of its stunning views of the bay and Bay Bridge and its well regarded Dungeness crab cakes. The weather was unfortunately not cooperating with us and we were stuck walking down Market Street and the Embarcadero in the rain.


Waterfront Restaurant has both an indoor dining area and a fully enclosed, tented outdoor dining area. Booth rooms are reasonably elegant and romantic. The view of the bay is gorgeous and includes the Bay Bridge, Treasure Island, and Yerba Buena Island. Despite the cold, damp day, we were kept dry and warm by one of many portable heated lamps that adorned the tented dining area were we were seated.


Our meal got off to an unfortunate start. After taking our orders, our waiter refused to let me keep my menu and yanked it out of my hands. In all of my eating around the country, I have never had this happen before. He had a change of heart after checking with the manager and returned later on with a copy for me. However, the damage had already been done and his coldness persisted throughout our meal.


Dad and I decided to start with the aforementioned Dungeness crab cakes with remoulade sauce. We both thoroughly enjoyed the crab cakes. The crab was extremely fresh and the cakes were fairly light on filler. The Dungeness crab meat had a distinctive taste that we both enjoyed. Mom had ordered the three course Christmas prix fixe, which began with butternut squash soup with Dungeness crab crostini. She greatly enjoyed the soup due to its vibrant flavor and use of light cream. Nothing ruins butternut squash soup faster than the overuse of heavy cream. The small Dungeness crab claw was excellent but it did not really contribute to the soup. Rather, it felt like a standalone addition.




Mom enjoyed the braised short ribs and mashed potato with caramelized onions. I also enjoyed the tender, well cooked meat but was disappointed with the sides which were unduly heavy. I love caramelized onions but could barely manage a taste of these due to their heft. Once again, Dad and I ordered the same dish, the Mesquite grilled Hawaiian escolar with asparagus, crab mashed potatoes and lemon nage. We had mixed reactions to the fish but were in agreement regarding the crab mashed potatoes and asparagus. Dad felt that the escolar had a tart flavor. I did not taste any tartness in my portion but was slightly disappointed by the simple preparation. However, we were both floored by the asparagus. This might sound strange to read since asparagus is not the type of thing that one typically comments on but this asparagus was just incredible. The stalks were huge, unbelievably soft, and had a rich flavor. This was easily that best asparagus the either of us have ever had. The crab mashed potatoes nicely complemented the fish.



For dessert, we all shared Mom’s chocolate fondant with raspberry coulis. The fondant was creamy, had a cheesecake‑like consistency, and was very rich. We quickly devoured it with only a few forkfuls.


Overall, I recommend Waterfront on the basis of its stunning views and well prepared California / Continental cuisine. The cooking is not innovative but this is not the place to go for a culinary adventure. Rather, it is a place to sit back, relax, and take in the beautiful scenery that San Francisco has to offer. I attribute our lackluster service to our particular waiter and am confidant that the service would otherwise have been fine.


The Facts
Name
: Waterfront
Address:
Pier 7 The Embarcadero
San Francisco, CA 94111
Phone: (415) 391-2696
Cuisine: Continental / California
Price: Appetizers $11-$14, Entrees $20-$30, Desserts $7.50
Website: Waterfront Restaurant