Mike Portnoy's Restaurants

Saturday, October 01, 2005

The Elephant Walk (Cambridge, MA)

Cambodia Meets France and Fusion Loses

Still reveling in my masterful fusion meal at Blue Ginger the previous night, I was eager to dig into the French-Cambodian cuisine that comprises the menu at The Elephant Walk. Lauren and Vikas whisked me away from Dan and Melanie's apartment, made a quick detour to Harvard Square to pick up Scott, and then headed off towards The Elephant Walk in Porter Square. We had originally intended to go to their Brookline location but time constraints altered our plans.

The Cambridge location is a two story venue. We waited downstairs at the bar for 10 minutes until a table opened up. We enjoyed their interesting drink menu but were disappointed when Lauren's Chumbaya never arrived. Fortunately, we were privy to excellent service during the remainder of our stay and quickly forgot about the aloof bartender (who did manage to make an outstanding Tanqueray and tonic for me). Throughout the evening, our experienced waitress guided our menu and Lauren's wine selections with informed advice.

Upon being presented with the menu, I was immediately overwhelmed by the large selection of dishes and the presence of two distinct prix fixes (a 3-course tasting for $30 and a 4-course tasting for $40). As I perused the menu, I noticed that each section of the menu consisted of two separate listings, one for Cambodian dishes and one for French dishes. After the true fusion experience of last night, I was extremely disappointed to see this obvious affront to the concept of fusion cuisine. Once the shock wore off, I settled on the 4-course prix fixe as did Lauren and Vikas (Scott ordered a la carte dishes).

Our starter course began with the salmon tartare and Cambodian spring rolls. The Tartare de Saumon au Fenouil (Salmon tartare with lemon, shallot, parsley and extra virgin olive oil; garnished with shaved fennel, edamame and French baguette toasts) was presented on mixed greens and seemed more like a salmon salad than a proper tartare. The dish was still enjoyable its with fresh, tender salmon pieces. The toasted French baguette slices allowed for miniature sandwiches to be made and the soy beans added an interesting flavor and texture that is not usually found in a raw salmon dish.


The Rouleaux (Camobdian spring rolls filled with ground pork, crushed peanuts, shredded carrots and minced onions; served with fresh lettuce, mint, Asian basil and bean sprouts for wrapping; tuk trey on the side for dipping) were outstanding. The succulent pork anchored the dish and was ensconced in a nicely fried shell. We ate the spring rolls in the traditional Cambodian manner by combining them with the bean sprouts, a piece of mint, then rolling them up in a large piece of lettuce, and finally dipping the roll in the accompanying sauce. The combination had a mixture of different textures and the flavor was beautifully complemented by the large, fresh, strongly flavored mint leaves.

Our soup / salad course consisted of the chilled avocado citrus soup, beet salad, shrimp salad, and an additional order of spring rolls. The Chilled Avocado Citrus Soup (Cubed avocado, button mushroom, plum tomatoes and diced onion in freshly squeezed orange and lime juices) that Lauren ordered was extremely tasty. It was light and refreshing and similar to many of the other cold, raw soups that I have had recently. This is one trend that I would love to see continue in the restaurant world.


I had the Salade Estivale aux Crevettes (Jumbo shrimp, watercress, edamame, julienned snow peas and celery, baby greens, shallot and cherry tomatoes tossed with lemon juice, crème fraiche and olive oil), which was a mistake since my first dish ended up being a salad as well. The three included shrimp were impressively large and very fresh. The salad was fairly standard and tasted similar to the salad that accompanied my salmon tartare. Once again soy beans helped vary the texture of the dish but any flavor of crème fraiche was absent from the dish.


Vikas thoroughly enjoyed his Salade de Betterave Rouge au Chevre (Diced red beet and weet pear with goat cheese and toasted walnut; dressed with balsamic vinaigrette). The salad was highlighted by generous portions of both the goat cheese and beets. One taste made me wish that it was my dish to enjoy.


Having only finished two of our four courses, I was already impressed but was eager to get to the meat (quite literally) of our order. After a short pause, our four entrees arrived. Scott enjoyed his Filet de Cabilaud Noir Grille et Caramelise (Wild Alaskan black cod filet lightly glazed with a mushroom soy-garlic marinade; served with a fragrant wild lime rice, a fresh ginger and coconut milk sauce and red bell pepper pickle salsa). I did not get an opportunity to sample this dish but the portions of cod and coconut rice appeared to be very small given its $26 price. Vikas and Lauren both ordered the Filet Mignon au Poivre et aux Raisins (Pan-seared 7oz beef tenderloin encrusted in a crushed black peppercorn; served with a red wine beef jus with fresh red grapes, leek gratin, mashed potatoes & pearl onion). The peppercorn coating had an extremely strong flavor and gave the otherwise plain tasting meat a spicy, enjoyable kick. I received a pleasant surprise when I bit into one of the leeks, which were extremely fresh and tender.


I ordered the Khar Saiko Kroeung (Natural Coleman beef short ribs braised in a sauce of ginger, mushroom soy, green coconut juice, tamarind and chili pods; served with fresh sliced cucumber) from the Cambodian portion of the menu and was not disappointed. The meat simply melted from the bone and was complimented perfectly by the sauce, which had just the right amount of spice so as not to overpower the flavor of the beef. The cucumbers provided a nice, crisp texture that contrasted the tenderness of the meat.


Before I begin describing the desserts that we enjoyed, I must make a strong disclaimer. Their coffee was simply awful (terribly weak and with an odd aftertaste). This was the uniform consensus of our table, which was devoid of coffee snobs (save for me). It is to be avoided at all costs. The enjoyable portion of our dessert course consisted of two orders of chocolate cake that Lauren and Vikas ordered and one mango mousse that I chose. This was easily my favorite course of the night, despite the fact that I thoroughly enjoyed all of our entrees. Le Peche au Chocolat (rich creamy white and semi-sweet chocolate truffle cake with raspberry sauce, whipped cream and delicate puff pastry straw) was one of the most enjoyable chocolate cake dishes that I have had in quite a long time. It seems that the recent trend is towards drier, flourless torts of which I am not a fan. As advertised, the cake truly was rich and creamy and sat in a very nice raspberry sauce.


I simply adored my Mango Mousse (Refreshingly tart and sweet mango mousse served in an almond lace cup; garnished with fresh kiwi). The creamy mousse was plated with a pool of mango sauce and a few pieces of fresh mango on top and is the perfect dish for all of the mango lovers out there (myself included). Now if only I had been able to enjoy a nice cup of coffee to finish off my meal.


At the end of the night, Lauren, Vikas, and Scott dropped me off at Dan and Melanie's before heading out for a night on the town. Apparently, my busy day of apple picking, hiking, touring Walden Pond, and eating had taken its toll on my body as I barely managed to type the first few words of this review before nodding off. Fortunately for me I dreamed of more food to come ...

Overall, Elephant Walk comes highly recommended as long as you are aware that this restaurant is in no way a Cambodian-French Fusion restaurant as is purports to be. That aside, you will be treated to an array of well prepared Cambodian and French dishes. Add to that the ability to compose your own meal of mixed cuisine dishes and the outstanding value provided by the two prix fixes and you are sure to have a memorable and enjoyable meal.

The Facts
Name: The Elephant Walk
Address:
2067 Massachusetts Avenue
Cambridge, MA 02140
Phone: (617) 492-6900
Cuisine: French and Cambodian
Website: The Elephant Walk
Cost: Appetizers $7.50-$11, Entrees $13-$28, 3-Course Prix Fixe $30, 4-Course Prix Fixe $40