Mike Portnoy's Restaurants

Saturday, April 22, 2006

Ernesto’s 1521 Cafe (Philadelphia, PA)

Italian Comfort

It had been almost a year since I had last visited Ernesto’s 1521 Café (5/26/05 to be exact) and its proximity to the Kimmel Center made it the perfect location for our family pre‑theater meal before the concert. We drove down to the Kimmel Center with Fred and Trudy, parked, and then set out for the brief one block walk to Ernesto’s. The pouring rain put a damper on the walk but the friendly greeting we received upon Ernesto’s quickly diffused the dreariness of the weather.

We were quickly seated and presented with menus. While browsing the menu, fond memories of the calamari fritti and osso buco that I had enjoyed during my last visit came back to me; in particular, the pomegranate molasses sauce and mango chutney that accompanied the calamari and the tenderness of the veal. I was also unfortunately reminded of the high noise level that pervades the dining room. The high ceiling and bare walls do little to dampen the chatter amongst the diners. Our server was a little tardy in taking our orders but the full dining room and low presence of servers were most likely the cause. As usual, service was friendly and relaxed throughout our meal.

We began with the calamari friiti with pomegranate molasses and mango chutney that I had previously enjoyed. I was disappointed this time with the heavy handed breading of the calamari but still very much enjoyed the pomegranate sauce and mango chutney that provided a nice fruity contrast to the fried calamari. My Dad was particularly impressed with the mango chutney. I greatly enjoyed the carpaccio di pesce di spada, thinly sliced marinated swordfish with olives and capers. The swordfish was extremely delicate and tender. The fresh olives, olive oil, and capers were light and refreshing. It was also impressed with the generous portion.

Mom enjoyed pollo sienese, chicken breast with porcini mushrooms and sun dried tomatoes in a marsala wine sauce served with soft polenta. The chicken was tender and flavorful. The well‑seasoned cauliflower and broccoli was a pleasant surprise. Dad was thrilled with the torta di granchio, a crab cake with Dijon cream sauce served with soft polenta. The crab cake was full of fresh lump crab meat and light on filler. Furthermore, the well fried shell was nice and crisp. I was disappointed at the lack of variety of the sides since they were identical to the sides that accompanied the pollo siense. The polenta that came with both dishes was extremely disappointing. It was bland, lumpy, and gluey in viscosity. I enjoyed the Cioppino, a trtraditional Italian seafood stew with shrimp, scallops, clams and fresh fish served with toasted Italian bread. The stew was overflowing with a generous portion of fresh seafood. I enjoyed the fish variety which included some flounder and tuna. The tomato broth was light and refreshing and did not overpower the flavor of the seafood.

Overall, I recommend Ernesto’s 1521 Café. It is a cozy neighborhood restaurant that serves well prepared Italian fare. The friendly servers and warm room make for a relaxed and enjoyable meal. Its close proximity to the Avenue of the Arts makes Ernesto’s a perfect pre-theater restaurant.

The Facts:
Name: Ernesto’s Cafe
Address:
1521 Spruce Street
Philadelphia, PA 19102
Phone: (215) 546-1521
Website: http://www.ernestos1521.com
Cuisine: Italian

Price: Antipasto ($6-$9), Salads ($6-$8), Entrees ($16-$29), Pasta ($15-$18), Dessert ($6)