Mike Portnoy's Restaurants

Monday, November 07, 2005

Audrey Claire (Philadelphia, PA)

Local Mediterranean Comfort

As I sat at a small table for two and gazed through the window next to me, I thought about why it had taken me so long to finally dine at Audrey Claire. I had heard many good things about this cozy neighborhood BYO not the least of which was a strong endorsement from Kendra and Yehuda. However, thoughts of their cash only policy coupled with an earlier lackluster visit to Twenty Manning (Audrey Claire Taichman’s other restaurant) lingered in my mind as I waited for Eric. I was early for once; it seems that I am always late when I am meeting him for dinner.

Eric arrived shortly and we began perusing the menu. The menu is divided into “smaller dishes” and “bigger dishes”, which are essentially analogous to appetizers and entrees. The selection is varied and the prices are fairly reasonable. There are also a number of daily specials handwritten on a small blackboard near the kitchen. The kitchen itself is open and completely visible from the dining room. The dining room is small and cute but the tables are tightly configured, which makes for a cramped and noisy meal. Fortunately for us, the restaurant was exceedingly empty on this particular night thus rendering my 5:45 PM reservation completely unnecessary.

I started with the grilled octopus over mixed greens, olives, feta, and lemon after receiving a strong recommendation from our personable server. The salad was medium sized and extremely flavorful. The ingredients were fresh and well balanced. I enjoyed the tender octopus that was generously apportioned but was disappointed by the miniscule pieces that the octopus was divided into. I tend to prefer larger, more substantial pieces of octopus in my salads. Nonetheless, the dish was refreshing and a good meal starter; I will certainly order this dish again in the future.

For my entrée, I chose one of their specials, crab cakes over a citrus risotto, with spinach, and dijon aioli. As a huge fan of crab cakes in general, I order them frequently and use them as benchmarks with which to compare different restaurants. The crab cake dish that I had tonight was outstanding. The two cakes were seared instead of being breaded as crabcakes typically are prepared. The crabmeat was fresh, tender, and free of filler. The seared cakes had a lightness to them that was unique. The citrus risotto had more of a coconut flavor than a citrus flavor to me but I enjoyed it. The dijon aioli perfectly complemented the crab cakes and risotto.

After finishing our meal we decided not to order dessert since none of the dishes jumped out at us. Instead, we ordered coffee, chatted some more, and then settled the bill before parting ways for the evening.

Overall, I enjoyed my meal at Audrey Claire. The menu consists of reliable Mediterranean fare and the service is attentive. Only a lack of coffee refills marred the service. I will be making a return visit during the next few weeks and will make a firmer recommendation.

The Facts
Name: Audrey Claire
Address:
276 South 20th Street
(Spruce Street)
Philadelphia, PA
Phone: (215) 731-1222
Website: Audrey Claire
Cuisine: Mediterranean
Price: “Smaller Dishes” $6-12, “Bigger Dishes” $14-22