Mike Portnoy's Restaurants

Friday, October 28, 2005

L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon (MGM Grand, Las Vegas, NV)

Small Plates and Large Theater at the MGM Grand

As I glanced down at my match, a look of panic spread over my face as I realized that it was an hour later than I had thought. Normally this would not be a problem but DJ and I had tickets to see Ka at the MGM Grand and we needed some time beforehand to grab a quick bite to eat. We quickly hurried over to the MGM Grand and DJ went to L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon to get us a table while I ran off to the ticket window to claim our will call tickets. After securing the tickets, I met DJ at my counter seat and took a brief minute to pause and catch my breath.

As I gathered myself and began to look around, I was struck by the interesting layout of the restaurant. The dining room contains only a handful of traditional booths. The majority of the seating is located around the counter of the large, rectangular, open kitchen. The black, red, and white coloring of the room makes for an elegant, yet relaxed atmosphere.


We decided to order four small plates and settled on Le Crabe, La Crevette, La Morue, and La Volaille. Our server expedited our orders since we were running late for the show; our bread arrived soon after. The first two dishes to arrive were the jumbo prawn with angel hair coating served with an orange and jasmine dip and the avocado slices, seasoned crabmeat and a mild spicy oil. The angel hair coating on the prawn was extremely crisp and dense. It completely enveloped the prawn and contrasted the tender meat. The orange dip added a nice flavor to the dish and we were off to a good start. We both loved the avocado slice with seasoned crabmeat. The avocado was particularly thinly sliced and the crabmeat was fresh and flavorful.


Our second course arrived almost immediately after we finished our first course. The fresh cod with fillet in a vegetable broth was outstanding. The fish was unbelievably moist and the portion was exceptionally generous for a tasting small plate. The wonton shell covering that adorned the top of the fish was paper thin and extremely soft. Finally, the vegetable broth added just enough flavor and body to round out the dish. The free range chicken wings served with sweet and sour pineapple was the most unique preparation of wings that I have seen. Two small, in bone pieces of fried chicken each sat atop of a pineapple ring that was sauced with a sweet and sour sauce. The chicken meat was pulled toward one end of the bone which made for easy consumption. The meat was very tender while the skin was crisp, yet non-greasy.

A surprise serving of mashed potatoes, a house specialty arrived courtesy of the Chef. The mashed potatoes were extraordinarily creamy. When I questioned our server regarding their preparation, he informed me that the potatoes are not whipped; rather, they are pressed through very fine filter paper.After paying the bill and procuring a menu, we were escorted into the theater by the maitre’d thus bypassing the line that had formed. We arrived with five minutes to spare and settled in for what would prove to be an absolutely marvelous show. Ka should not be missed by anyone going to Las Vegas.


I highly recommend L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon. The food is absolutely outstanding and the small plate menu affords you the opportunity to sample many of Chef Robuchon’s dishes without having to pay for the more expensive entrees. The service is also topnotch. Finally, the counter seating and open kitchen configuration of the dining room makes for an interesting meal replete with people watching.

The Facts
Name: L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon
Address:
MGM Grand
3799 Las Vegas Blvd S
Las Vegas, NV 89109
Phone: (702) 891-7925
Website: L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon
Cuisine: French
Price: Tasting Portions $9-$32, Appetizers $14-$54, Entrees $26-$54