Mike Portnoy's Restaurants

Wednesday, October 26, 2005

Aureole (Mandalay Bay, Las Vegas, NV)

Unreal Aureole is Amazing

I enjoyed the best meal that I have had all year at Aureole in Mandalay Bay. Such praise does not come lightly given the large number of fantastic meals that I have enjoyed this past year across the country. However, no praise can do justice to the meal that DJ and I experienced. Everything was simply outstanding from the food to the service to the wine to the décor.

I had planned this meal long in advance and was looking forward to it but it was not on the top of my list. Due to the fact that it is an attempt to replicate Charlie Palmer’s New York landmark, I was skeptical at first. However, I was hopeful due in large part to Vikas’s strong recommendation of the New York location. I left John, Jake, and Bob at the Border Grill and made my way to the area outside of the restaurant where I waited for DJ to arrive from McCarran Airport. We met up outside the Red, White, and Blue Café and embarked on what I hoped would be an excellent 25th birthday celebration for him.

Upon entering the restaurant, you are immediately struck by its stunning décor. The high ceilings, formal table settings and extensive use of attractive tan wood make for an elegant and luxurious, yet modern dining room. The restaurant is set down a few stories from the rest of the casino. The stairway leading down to the restaurant encircles a multistory glass enclosed wine cellar that is visible from outside the restaurant. The view of the cellar is breathtaking and must be observed in person in order to fully comprehend its majesty. As you descend the stairs, you cannot help but be awestruck and you immediately sense that you are entering a special, unique restaurant. Even the facade of the restaurant is noteworthy with the name appearing in shadowed letters above three oddly shaped windows.



The hostess took DJ’s bags for storage during our meal and promptly seated us at a table in the middle of one of the dining areas. The main dining room is continuous but high walled booths help to divide the room into smaller, more intimate dining areas. Throughout our meal, our section of the dining room was fairly empty, which contributed to the intimacy of our meal.




After being seated, we were immediately presented with the menus and I asked to see the wine list. What proceeded was the most unique wine list presentation that I have ever seen. Our server came back a tablet PC instead of the traditional bound, paper wine list that we are all accustomed to receiving. We were informed that the wine list is simply too large to be printed in the traditional way and I do not doubt this at all. Aureole has arguably the city’s largest and best wine collection. The wine list was easily navigated using a program that was custom written for the restaurant. I was overwhelmed by the list and asked our server for recommendations after telling him my wine preferences (dry, peppery red wines). He strongly recommended a 1998 Colombia Valley D2 Cabernet Blend, which he described in detail, but decided to get the sommelier since he would be better able to discuss the wine by the glass selections with us. I appreciated our server’s proactive approach especially since I was not asking many questions. The sommelier quickly came to our table and gave us a wonderful five minute lesson on the differences between the oak barrels that are used to age some of the various wines that are offered by the glass. He likewise recommended the D2 Cabernet for its richness and worldliness. DJ and I each ordered a glass despite my general distaste for Cabernet blends. Our server returned with the wine and we quickly sampled it. We were both immediately stunned by its rich flavor and full body. It demonstrated a complexity not often found in wines that cost twice as much. This was certainly the best wine that I have had all year and might very well be the best glass of wine that I have ever heard.


After the wine ordering was complete, DJ and I each ordered the 7 course tasting menu and settled in for a night of what we hoped would be good food, good conversation, and some much needed catching up. A server soon arrived with a tray full of interesting breads. I choose a pretzel roll and a black olive roll while DJ chose an onion roll and a black olive roll. DJ absolutely loved the onion roll and it was clear that the breads were baked fresh; I enjoyed both of mine. The black olive roll had a very strong, distinctive flavor and the pretzel roll was extremely soft and tender. It served as an excellent palate cleanser between the various courses.


Our first course was a trio of ahi tuna “Mediterranean” flavors, which was a tasting of three different preparations of rare tuna: pesto infused zucchini blossom, fennel crusted loin 'Nicoise' style, and 'Olioe' dressed tartar. The fennel crusted loin was a standard wedge of seared rare tuna. The ‘Olioe’ tartare had a strong olive oil flavor but was well balanced. The final tuna preparation consisted of a pesto base. This preparation was extremely flavorful, very fresh, and new to me. These three different preparations covered a nice spectrum of textures and flavors and showcased the kitchen’s versatility with a single ingredient, rare ahi tuna.


Next from the kitchen was a delightful preparation of hand rolled potato-truffle gnocchi with English peas and fresh summer black truffles. The gnocchi was incredibly light and creamy. The truffle foam added a unique flavor and texture to the gnocchi. The other ingredients combined together nicely to form a dish that was more than the sum of its parts.


It must be noted that the pacing of our meal was outstanding all night long. Dishes were very evenly spaced and we always had just enough time to appreciate each dish without feeling that we were waiting for the next dish. All restaurants that serve tasting menus should take lessons from Aureole as it has been my experience that tasting menu pacing is never this uniform nor well timed.

The third course was the most traditional of the courses that were presented to us and consisted of citrus grilled escolar with white and green asparagus and a watercress emulsion. I loved this dish since I am a huge fan of escolar (my other favorite fish is skate). The escolar was moist and the watercress emulsion was surprisingly flavorful.


The fourth course, Moulard duck breast and crispy foie gras spring roll with herb spaetzle, balsamic Treviso, and glazed baby turnips was one of my favorite dishes of the evening. The duck breast was well prepared; the foie gras and duck that lined the inside of the spring roll were nice and crisp. Due to the variety of this dish, it easily had the most complex, layered flavors of the night.


The final savory course was a duo of filet mignon and oxtail marmalade with a medley of jewel potatoes “Lyonnaise”. This was the least memorable of the courses. The meat itself was very tender but the lagged slightly behind the others in terms of creativity and variety.


Having concluded our entrees, we looked forward to our cheese and dessert courses that were to come. The cheese course contained an interesting mix of three different kinds of cheese, a cranberry orange polenta cake, caramelized pecans, orange shallot vinaigrette, and a collection of greens. Our server recommended combining all ingredients at once as opposed to eating each item sequentially. This sounded extremely strange to us but we entertained his recommendation since he claimed that the dish was merely ordinary if eaten in the typical manner. Combining a little of each of the cheeses, the greens, and the cranberry cake, I thrust them into my mouth and began to taste. The taste was very strange due to the mixture of different textures but worked surprisingly well. The greens, cheese, and cake complemented each other beautifully although the individual flavors of the cheeses were lost.


Our dessert course consisted of a milk chocolate hazelnut parfait with tangerine sorbet, candied orange, and dark chocolate sauce. The sorbet was refreshing and was served in a hollowed out tangerine wedge. The parfait was rich, extremely flavorful, and very creamy yet managed to be surprisingly light. DJ adored this dish and I also thoroughly enjoyed it. This was one of the best desserts that I have ever had.


Our meal concluded with petits fours and handmade chocolates, most of which we took back to the hotel since we were extremely full. I do not think that I could have asked for a better meal to celebrate DJ’s 25th birthday. I would be a very happy man if every meal that I eat is as good as this one.


I give Aureole in Mandalay Bay my absolute highest recommendation. This was the easily the best meal that I have had all year. Service, décor, wine, and food are all outstanding. The tasting menu is sublime and is not to be missed. It is creative, expertly prepared and crafted, and perfectly well balanced.

The Facts
Name: Aureole
Address:
Mandalay Bay Hotel
3950 Las Vegas Blvd. S.
(Hacienda Ave.)
Las Vegas, NV 89119
Phone: (702) 632-7401
Cuisine: New French
Website: Aureole
Price: 7 course tasting menu ($95)