Mike Portnoy's Restaurants

Saturday, September 24, 2005

Valanni (Philadelphia, PA)

Beethoven’s 5th with a Mediterranean Prelude

On this rare night, my meal in downtown Philly was not the main attraction of the evening for tonight was the opening subscription concert for the Philadelphia Orchestra’s 2005-2006 season. My Dad and I were eagerly awaiting tonight’s program, which included Beethoven’s 1st and 5th symphonies. Fortunately, there was space in our schedule for a first visit to Valanni for a quick pre-concert meal. We hopped in my car and headed off towards Route 76 and the Avenue of the Arts. I parked in my usual spot in the Kimmel Center Parking Lot and we headed east on Spruce. We quickly arrived at Valanni but not before I paused for a quick smile and wave towards Vetri in passing. Upon entering the restaurant, we were immediately seated at a small table towards the back of the restaurant.

Although initially empty, the restaurant quickly filled up and by the time we left, there was not a free table to be had. Throughout our meal, we were surrounded by other concert goers who also chose Valanni as the pre-concert restaurant of choice. After reviewing the menu, I decided to start with an octopus salad followed by a halibut entrée for my main course. Dad settled on the sea scallop entree

The marinated grilled octopus salad with mixed greens, grilled fennel, sun-dried tomatoes, olives, and lemon-garlic vinaigrette was excellent. The octopus was extremely fresh and was expertly grilled, avoiding the common traps of being tough and chewy. The supporting array of tomatoes, olives, and vinaigrette complemented the generous portion of octopus extremely well.

Our entrees arrived soon after we finished our appetizers. My Dad’s seared diver scallops with Peruvian bean salad, cilantro lime vinaigrette, lump crab meat, and micro greens, with a piquillo pepper drizzle looked outstanding. The four scallops were large and plump with the pepper drizzle expertly pooled around each scallop. I sampled one of the scallops and was impressed with its preparation. What really stood out was the pepper sauce, which was surprisingly spicy and transformed the scallops and crab meat dish into something different. I enjoyed sauce quite a bit but my Dad was less impressed (for the record, he is not a fan of spicy food).

I really enjoyed my pan seared halibut with vegetable cous cous, sun-dried tomato tapenade, and basil. The dish exemplified everything that I like about Mediterranean cuisine. It was fresh, simply prepared, extremely flavorful, and combined several different flavors and textures. In addition, the portion of halibut was large.

Our dessert decision was a difficult one but we settled on the Green Apple, Brandied Cherry White Chocolate Bread Pudding with caramel, vanilla ice cream, and toasted coconut. My coffee came served in a personal French press. It was excellent as expected since it came from La Colombe but was extremely overpriced at $3 for barely more than a cup (and a small one at that). We first received the wrong dessert but the mishap was quickly and quietly remedied. The bread pudding was simply outstanding; one of the best desserts that I have had in a long time. The portion was very generous and the caramel flavoring was rich and coated the entirety of the bread pudding. My Dad and I thoroughly enjoyed each and every bite of the creamy bread pudding and it disappeared from its plate in record time. In short, our dessert course was superb. Oh, and by the way, the concert was superb as well.

Overall, Valanni comes highly recommended. The décor is cool and modern, yet simplistic and not overdone. The low level lighting, candlelit tables, and reasonably intimate setting make for a romantic yet relaxed meal. The dishes are extremely flavorful and a step or two above their counterparts at other Mediterranean restaurants in the area.

The Facts
Name: Valanni
Address:
1229 Spruce Street
Philadelphia, PA 19107
Phone: (215) 790-9494
Cuisine: Latin Mediterranean
Website: Valanni
Cost: Appetizers $8-17, Entrees $19-29, Desserts $6-$7