Mike Portnoy's Restaurants

Saturday, November 12, 2005

Upstairs at Varalli (Philadelphia, PA)

Mahlerian Vista at Varalli

I had attempted to dine at Upstairs at Varalli on one previous occasion but was unfortunately seated downstairs. To ensure that Dad and I were seated upstairs for our pre concert dinner, I added a note to our opentable.com reservation. When we arrived at the restaurant, we headed upstairs and were seated immediately. We both appreciated the fact that our hostess asked us if we were attending any performances tonight so that she could guarantee that we were finished on time.

The atmosphere at Upstairs at Varalli is outstanding. The view of the city is breathtaking though the panoramic window, especially at night when Broad Street is illuminated by street lamps. The dining room is very romantic with candle lit tables and low level ambient lighting. Our server was attentive and provided excellent dish suggestions throughout the evening.

I started with an octopus salad, which was one of today’s specials. Large, fresh pieces of grilled octopus were accompanied by mixed greens, olives, and scallions. The salad was refreshing, nicely portioned, and very flavorful.


Dad loved the seared jumbo scallops with a pumpkin butter sauce, wilted spinach, apple-smoked bacon and black truffles. The pumpkin butter was well balanced and nicely complemented the lightly grilled, moist scallops. The wilted spinach was too bland for my taste. I ordered the seafood risotto with lobster, shrimp, scallops, crab, mussels, tomatoes, saffron and basil after a very strong recommendation from our server. I was impressed with the large portion of seafood and risotto and found the dish to be particularly filling. The seafood selection included several pieces of lump crab meat, four mussels, three large grilled shrimp, two scallops, and a small lobster tail. All of the seafood was fresh. I enjoyed the risotto but must warn that the tomato and saffron flavoring is extremely strong; Dad was not a fan of my dish.



For dessert, I had the mango mouse with mango coulis while Dad had the key lime pie. Dad enjoyed the key lime pie although we both noted that it was by far the densest key lime pie that we had ever had. I was not a big fan of the pie although I loved my mango mouse. It was refreshing, light, and creamy. The strawberries were fresh and the mango coulis was flavorful. After paying the bill, we headed over to the Kimmel Center for what would prove to be an outstanding performance of Mahler’s 6th Symphony.



Overall, I recommend Upstairs at Varalli. The menu consists of well prepared Italian classics with a focus on seafood and risotto dishes. The view of the city is spectacular, especially once it becomes dark outside. The combination of the candle lit dining room and panoramic window makes for a very romantic meal. The service is also reasonably good.

The Facts
Name: Upstairs at Varalli
Address:
1345 Locust Street
Philadelphia, Pa 19107
Phone: (215) 546-4200
Cuisine: Italian
Website: Upstairs at Varalli
Price: Appetizers $4-$14, Entrees $9-$25, Desserts $5-7