Mike Portnoy's Restaurants

Sunday, October 02, 2005

The Blue Room (Cambridge, MA)

A No Blues Brunch at the Blue Room

I woke up to yet another gorgeous Boston morning, threw on some clothes, and jumped into Dan's car (with Melanie at the wheel) as we headed over to One Kendall Square. Being the huge brunch buffet fan that I am, I had been eagerly awaiting this meal ever since I made the reservation last week. Zagat's had a favorable review and their online menu hinted at a diverse, Mediterranean-focused meal. Finally, at $23 per person, this was one of the more reasonably priced, gourmet brunches that I had encountered in quite some time (compared to some of my favorites, Swann Lounge and Lacroix at the Rittenhouse).


As I approached the restaurant, I was impressed with the surrounding area. The Blue Room is part of a few buildings that encompass One Kendall Square and the enclosed area has a quietness to it that is relaxing. Upon entering the restaurant, I was ushered past the dessert table, which looked sadly ordinary, to my single table next to the window. One sip from my water glass added to my building concerns due to its strangely metallic aftertaste (having sampled Boston's finest many times, I can testify that this was not simply a case of normal tap water). The coffee was fine so I just avoided the water for the remainder of the meal.

The layout of the restaurant is very conducive to serving a buffet meal since there is an open kitchen area that is surrounded with a lengthy countertop. The format of the buffet was outstanding; all of food was served in small bowls or on small plates that were left unheated. The small size serving dishes ensured that the food was fresh and the absence of heated chaffers ensured that the cooked dishes would not be unnecessary overcooked / dried out. The selection was varied and fairly large. I decided to sample each dish (well almost every dish, no pork or standard breakfast foods for me) beginning with the salads, followed by the meats, moving then into the seafood, and finally concluding with the separate dessert table.

My extended salad course began with some Mesculan Greens a with Mango Vinaigrette. The greens were uninteresting but the mango vinaigrette was tangy and contained freshly cubed mango pieces. The Grilled Octopus Salad that I sampled next was outstanding. The octopus was extremely tender and the salad had a surprising amount of flavor. My next two salads, the French Lentil Salad and Fregola Sarda with Chick Peas and Roasted Fennel, had very similar textures but were each uniquely flavored. I was partial to the lentil salad but the chick pea salad was also nice. I was disappointed with the Asian Noodles with Soy, Sesame and Seaweed Salad which was essentially a cold version of a standard lomein dish. The Three Bean Salad was a simple mix of multiple types of beans but the Mediterranean Salmon Salad was divine. The salmon was shredded and mixed with a number of different ingredients including onions and corn. It had a strong, unique flavor and its mixture of textures made it a joy to eat and one of my favorite dishes. The Cucumber and Radish Salad that followed, however, was not notable. The Halibut Ceviche that concluded my salad / cold appetizer course was another favorite dish from the meal. The raw fish was extremely fresh but had been thoroughly marinated so as not to taste too fishy. It melted in my mouth but was not overly drowned in sauce.




Having just consumed to large plates of salad I was just getting started and was eager to sample the meats that were available. I chose to begin with a small taste of the Fresh Corn Grits. I did not enjoy the grits but you must take my comment with a grain of salt since I am not much of a grits fan in general. My first meat dish of the morning was the Cumin Rubbed Grilled Flank Steak. I enjoyed the meat despite its cooking preparation which boarded on well done (I prefer medium rare). The cumin rub was generously applied and enjoyable. The Moroccan Spiced Chicken Thighs with Harissa lacked flavor but the meat was perfectly moist and tender. After the chicken, I concluded my meat tasting with the Whole Roasted Lamb and Braised Brisket, both of which were ordinary.


Being the huge seafood fan that I am, I was eager to try the seafood offerings although I was disappointed by the small selection relative to the number of salad and meat choices. The Pickled Sardines that I tried first were fine. Unfortunately, the Grilled Salmon with Chunky Fennel Vinaigrette dish that followed did not come close to achieving the success that the Mediterranean salmon salad that I had early did due to its bland preparation and sauce that was neither chunky nor strongly flavored with fennel. I adored the Hot Salted Head-On Shrimp with Chipotle Ketchup but the dish seemed out of place with the rest of the buffet. The chipotle ketchup had a nice kick and the shrimp were large and just properly cooked. My hands were stained from the ketchup after picking at the shrimp but it was well worth it. A few Sweet Plantains started warming up my sweet taste buds before I delved into the meat of the dessert course.


I began my dessert course with a dish that I have recently become incredibly sick of -- bread pudding. Having indulged myself with New Orleans finest bread puddings during my last trip there, I have yet to find a bread pudding worth eating outside of Louisiana until now. The actual pudding was unremarkable. However, the pudding was topped with a quarter inch thick brownie that transformed the dish. The Apple Tart Tatin was made from fairly tart apples but suffered from a little too much sugar. The Nut Brownie that looked so ordinary when I first passed by the dessert table at the beginning of my meal was surprisingly light and contained molten chocolate chips that were still warm.


The Mango Muffin that I had next was not worth eating due to the extremely faint mango flavoring and slightly dry consistency. I am not quite sure what was intended with the Tropical Fruit Crisp, which was more of a soupy mess than a fruit crisp. I enjoyed the Lemon Buttermilk Pudding which benefited from a light lemon flavoring. My brunch concluded with an outstanding Coconut Macaroon. I could have eaten an endless amount of the soft, crumbly cookies.


Overall, the Blue Room is highly recommended for brunch. The diverse menu is well executed and contains a wide variety of dishes. Coupled with the smart serving strategy (small, unheated bowls) and the reasonable price (for the food quality) and you have the making of an excellent meal. Finally, the subdued, modern décor and attentive service coupled with the tremendous amount of natural sunlight shining in the dining room through the large glass front provides a relaxed environment for enjoying your brunch.

The Facts
Name: The Blue Room
Address:
One Kendall Square
Cambridge, MA 02139
Phone: (617) 494-9034
Cuisine: Eclectic
Website: The Blue Room
Cost: Brunch $23